Answer: It is not as complicated as you might think.

1. Remove block from shoe.

2. Lightly thinner the skin off. We use an 8 oz. plastic squirt bottle with a wool dye dauber shaft inserted and nestled at the tip for fluid control.

3. Rub thinner on the block to make it glass smooth, any dimple or debris will show in the layout phase. Use only clean, clear cement.

4. Cement both the block and the cover.

5. Lay your block or base dead center to the dead center of the covering, at total posterior. Allow at least 1/2-inch of total overhang prior to the previous steps. Pre-fit if you will.

6. Work your wrapper horizontally with your thumb toward the breast on both sides. Go slowly. Try to stretch the skin 1/8 of an inch at a time. Use a light spray of stretching solution on the finished side of the skin to release any pressure on a radically curved base (Louie, for example) or a heavy, stiff wrapper.

7. Allow  a 3/16-inch overhang on the anterior edges. Fold over the breast. Cut ^^^ in the areas of stress to release pressure before you lay and fold to fit.

Do not rush. Allow hard tack time. Use heat to activate if necessary. "Sponge assembly" wet or premature curing is forbidden.

Donald Myers, OST,Pedorthist, President
NEWSHOES- Professinal Shoe Recrafters & Pedorthic Center
Tigard, Oregon

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Answer: I have used this method, but it only works in the right situation. If you can use your heel pry and loosen around the heel block between the heel and the shoe, it can make the job easier than removing the heel. Be careful not to break off a piece of the heel.

You still have to remove the breasting If you can pry open the edge of the heel block and soak the heel cover with thinner. It might come off nicely.

Then, if you can use the old heel cover as a pattern, use a thin kid skin, or garment leather, and first glue the heel block and leather only (but not the part that you tuck under the heel.) I soak the outside of the heel cover with stretch all to make it stretch better.

If you are satisfied with how it looks, then you can tuck the edge of the leather into where you pried open the heel block. (you have to pre-sand the areas where you use the glue. I use an old naumkeg pad.) This way you don't have to take off the heel block.

I have done this method when I see the heel block is held on with that big old staple. Then reglue the heel breasting and install the heel lift.
I have also used this method when fixing a dog-chewed heel cover, when I only have to do one cover.

Gene Hartsock

Hartland Shoe Repair Co.
St. Paul, Minnesota

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The machine is well worth the investment. It heats up the nails in the heel block and makes it come out of the plastic block with ease. You then remove the block, and follow Don's instructions, and just reattach the block and you're done. That big staple Gene was talking about comes out very easily once it is heated up.